Fuli Town

What it is

Fuli is one of the old towns of Yangshuo County, sitting on the downstream stretch of the Li River to the east of the county town. Before railways, airlines and highways connected this part of China to the coast, the river was the only route, and Fuli's wharf was one of the busiest on the Li — a compulsory stop for goods moving between the interior and the sea.

What is left

The wharf, the old street behind it, and a cottage industry in hand-painted paper fans that has been here for generations. The houses are shabby rather than restored, which is either authentic or neglected depending on your expectations — but it is real, and there are no coach parties.

Why go

If West Street felt like a theme park, come here. It is fifteen kilometres from Yangshuo and feels like a different decade. An hour is enough: the old street, the wharf, and watching the fan painters at work.

What to look for

• The old wharf and the river beyond it
• Fan painters at work in the workshops along the street
• The old street houses, unrestored and lived in
• The riverbank in late afternoon, when the light comes across the water

Getting there

About 15 km downstream (east) of Yangshuo town, on the Li River. Twenty minutes by car.

Best time to go

Late afternoon for the light on the river. Avoid the middle of the day in summer — there is little shade.

Practical notes

• Bring cash for fans — the workshops are small and may not take cards.
• An hour is enough; combine it with Xingping or the Yulong River.
• Manage expectations: this is a working town, not a restored heritage site.

Questions about Fuli Town